Precious Metal Compliance

Jewelry Regulations: Precious Metal Hallmarking and Purity Standards

You hand-craft beautiful jewelry with sterling silver, 14K gold, or platinum. You sell on Etsy with 5-star reviews. But are you complying with FTC regulations about precious metal purity and hallmarking? Many handmade jewelry makers don't realize the FTC (Federal Trade Commission) has strict rules about what you can claim your metals are, how you must mark them, and what happens if you misrepresent purity. This guide explains precious metal standards, hallmarking requirements, when you need assay testing, and how to stay compliant without expensive certification.

FTC Regulations: What You Must Know

FTC (Federal Trade Commission): Regulates jewelry advertising and labeling to prevent deceptive practices.

Core rule: You cannot claim your jewelry is a certain precious metal (gold, silver, platinum) unless it actually contains that metal at the required purity level. And you must disclose the purity.

Real Consequences

Etsy actively monitors jewelry listings for compliance. Listing removed. Account suspended. Cease-and-desist letters from the FTC. It happens to handmade jewelry makers.

What you CAN'T do:

  • ✗ Claim "gold" without disclosing the purity (14K, 10K, etc.)
  • ✗ Claim "sterling silver" if it's plated or filled, not solid
  • ✗ Use generic terms like "gold tone," "silver tone" if it's not actually gold/silver
  • ✗ Claim "14K gold" without testing to confirm it's actually 14K

Precious Metal Purity Standards

Gold Purity Levels

Gold purity is measured in karats (K). Pure gold is 24K. The higher the number, the higher the gold content.

24K Gold

99.5% pure gold. Soft, expensive, rarely used for jewelry (too malleable).

22K Gold

91.7% pure gold. Soft, expensive. Common in traditional Indian jewelry. Rare in US.

18K Gold (Most Common for Handmade)

75% pure gold. Good balance of purity and durability. Ideal for fine jewelry.

14K Gold (Most Popular for Durability)

58.3% pure gold. Durable, affordable. Industry standard for engagement rings and daily-wear jewelry.

10K Gold (Minimum for "Gold" Label)

41.7% pure gold. Most durable but less pure. Minimum purity the FTC allows you to call "gold."

Silver Purity Levels

Silver purity is expressed in parts per thousand. Pure silver is 999.

Sterling Silver (925)

92.5% pure silver. Industry standard. Only silver you should use if claiming "sterling silver."

Coin Silver (900)

90% pure silver. Less common. Can't call it "sterling silver" but can call it "coin silver" or "900 silver."

Silver Plated/Filled

Base metal with silver coating/layer. Cannot be called "sterling silver." Must disclose it's plated/filled.

Platinum Purity

Platinum standard: 95% pure platinum (950 standard) or higher to claim "platinum."

Palladium and white gold: Often used as platinum alternatives. Must disclose if NOT platinum (these are less durable and valuable).

Hallmarking and Jewelry Marking

What Hallmarks Are Required?

Hallmark: A mark stamped on jewelry indicating purity (14K, 925, etc.) and often the maker's mark.

FTC requirement: If you claim your piece is a certain purity, you must mark it with a hallmark showing that purity.

Common marks:

  • • Gold: 10K, 14K, 18K, 24K (or 417, 585, 750, 999)
  • • Silver: 925, 900, 950, STERLING (or parts per thousand)
  • • Platinum: PLAT, PT, 950, 900
  • • Maker's mark: Your initials or business name (optional but recommended)

Where Do Hallmarks Go?

Hallmarks are typically stamped on the inside of rings, bracelets, and necklaces. For smaller pieces (earrings, pendants), they're stamped on the back or a link.

Important: If the piece is too small for marking, you must disclose the purity clearly in your product listing.

How to Get Hallmarks

Option 1: DIY with metal stamps - Purchase stamps for each purity you use (~$20-50 per stamp). Stamp by hand using a hammer. Simple but imperfect.

Option 2: Hallmarking service - Send pieces to a professional hallmarking service (~$50-200 per batch). High-quality, professional marks.

Option 3: Hallmarking press/equipment - Professional equipment (~$500-2,000). If you make high volume, pays for itself.

Gemstone Disclosure Requirements

If your jewelry includes gemstones (diamonds, sapphires, etc.), you must disclose:

  • • Whether it's natural or synthetic/lab-created ("natural diamond" vs. "lab-created diamond")
  • • If it's treated (heat-treated, irradiated, oiled, etc.)
  • • If it's composite (multiple pieces assembled together)
  • • Approximate color and clarity (if claiming specific grades)

Common Example

If you use a lab-created sapphire, you MUST disclose it in your Etsy listing and on product tags. You can't just say "sapphire"—it must say "lab-created sapphire" or "synthetic sapphire."

Assay Testing: Do You Need It?

Assay testing: Professional analysis of precious metal content to verify purity.

Do you need it? Not legally required for handmade makers. But recommended if you:

  • • Use supplier materials without documentation of purity
  • • Melt and reuse metals (you can't verify the exact purity)
  • • Want to credibly claim specific purity levels

Cost: $50-$200 per sample depending on lab and testing type.

Best Practice for Most Makers

Buy precious metals from reputable suppliers (Etsy, Rio Grande, Fire Mountain) who provide documentation of purity. Keep that documentation. You can confidently mark your jewelry with the documented purity.

You don't need independent assay testing if your supplier provides certificates.

Jewelry Compliance Checklist

Step 1: Use precious metals at documented purity (14K gold, 925 silver, etc.)
Step 2: Hallmark every piece with the appropriate purity mark (14K, 925, etc.)
Step 3: Disclose gemstone origin/treatment (natural, lab-created, treated, etc.)
Step 4: Accurately describe purity in your Etsy/website product listings (no misleading claims)
Step 5: Keep supplier documentation showing purity of materials purchased

Key Takeaways

  • FTC enforces precious metal labeling. Claims must match actual purity. Violations can result in listing removal and account suspension.
  • Use documented materials: Buy from suppliers with purity documentation. Keep that documentation.
  • Hallmark every piece with purity mark. 14K gold, 925 silver, PT for platinum, etc.
  • Disclose gemstone origin and treatment. "Lab-created," "heat-treated," etc. No misleading claims.
  • Assay testing optional if suppliers provide documentation. But recommended for peace of mind if using unknown/recycled metals.

Other Craft-Specific Compliance Guides

Manage Your Jewelry Compliance

Supplier documentation, purity certifications, hallmarking records, gemstone disclosures—managing jewelry compliance documentation is complex. TrueCraft helps jewelry makers track material sourcing, purity documentation, and compliance records.

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