The True Cost of Handmade Products
Most artisans only count material costs when pricing—then wonder why they're barely breaking even. The truth? You're ignoring 60-70% of your actual costs: labor, overhead, utilities, insurance, and platform fees.
The Material-Only Pricing Trap
Many artisans follow this logic: "Materials cost $5, so I'll sell it for $15 (3x markup)." But this ignores:
- Labor: Your production time, design, setup, quality control
- Overhead: Studio rent, utilities, insurance, equipment depreciation
- Platform Fees: Etsy (6.5%), Shopify (2.9%), Stripe (2.2%) eat profits
The Four Categories of Product Costs
Direct Materials
40-60%Fabric, thread, dyes, clay, wood, metal, beads, packaging
Labor
20-40%Production, design, setup, quality control, packing
Overhead
10-20%Studio rent, utilities, insurance, tool depreciation
Platform & Processing
5-15%Etsy/Shopify, Stripe/PayPal, shipping integrations
Real Example: Hand-Sewn Tote Bag
Let's calculate the actual cost most makers miss:
| Materials (canvas, thread, label) | $2.50 |
| Labor (2 hours @ $20/hr) | $40.00 |
| Overhead allocation | $5.00 |
| Packaging & supplies | $2.00 |
| Platform & payment fees (5%) | $2.45 |
| Total True COGS | $51.95 |
If You Price at $125:
Profit: $73.05 (58% margin) ✓ Sustainable
If You Use "3x Material" ($2.50 × 3 = $7.50):
Loss: -$44.45 per bag 💥
If You Charge $30 (typical "competitive"):
Loss: -$21.95 per bag. After 100 sales: -$2,195
The Complete COGS Formula
SBA provides COGS guidance that confirms this approach. Once you calculate your true COGS, use profit analysis to identify which products are worth your time.
Key: Your minimum price must be COGS + desired profit margin. If competitors charge less, they're either underpricing or have different cost structures. Focus on YOUR profitability.
Deep Dive: Overhead Allocation Methods
Method 1: Percentage of Materials - If overhead is 15% of materials. Materials $10 → overhead $1.50. Simple but doesn't scale.
Method 2: Per-Unit Annual Allocation - Annual overhead ÷ annual units. Overhead $6,000/yr, make 500 items/yr = $12 per unit. Best method.
Method 3: Labor-Hour Based - $6,000 overhead ÷ 1,000 labor hrs/yr = $6/hr overhead. 2-hour product = $12 overhead. Ties to effort.
Most makers underallocate overhead (treat it as 0% or negligible). Reality: overhead is 10-30% of true cost depending on industry.
Real Case Study: Tom's $6,400/Year Pricing Mistake
The Problem
Tom: Custom leather belts. Priced at "$80 per belt" logic: materials $15, labor $30, profit $35 per belt. Made 100 belts/year = $3,500 profit. But had $6,000 annual overhead (rent $300/mo, utilities $100/mo, tools $600/yr). Never allocated it to products.
The Discovery
True COGS per belt: $15 materials + $30 labor + $60 overhead ($6k ÷ 100 belts) + $3 fees = $108. At $80 selling price = LOSING $28 per belt.
The Fix
Raised price to $165 (true cost $108 + $57 profit = 53% margin). Concerned about losing customers. Lost only 15% of volume (100 → 85 belts/year).
The Results
Before: -$2,500/year (losing money). After: $2,445/year profit on 85 belts. Swing: +$4,945/year from same business. All from pricing correctly.
Comparison: Cost Accounting Methods
Edge Cases
TrueCraft: Automatic COGS Calculation
- Material Cost Database: Log materials once (cost per unit). System multiplies by BOM quantity. "Leather $12/sq ft × 2 sq ft for wallet = $24 material cost."
- Labor Hour Tracking: Log hours per product. System multiplies by your burdened labor rate ($25/hr → $32.50 with taxes/downtime).
- Automatic Overhead Allocation: Enter annual overhead. System divides by planned annual production. "100 belts/year, $6k overhead = $60/belt overhead automatically calculated."
- Platform Fee Modeling: "If selling on Etsy (6.5% fee): product COGS $100, fees $6.50, total true cost $106.50."
- Real-Time Profitability: Every product shows: Sale Price - COGS = Profit with % margin. "Leather belt: $165 - $108 = $57 profit (35% margin)."
Example: Jewelry maker using TrueCraft. Discovered 30% of products were "loss leaders" (priced below COGS). Discontinued 3 SKUs, repriced 5 others. Revenue flat (+2%) but profit +42% ($18k → $25.5k annually) from removing hidden losses.
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View All Pricing Articles →COGS & Cost Accounting Resources
Learn more about cost accounting and COGS from authoritative sources:
SBA COGS Worksheet
Small Business Administration official guide to calculating cost of goods sold.
IRS Tax Guide for Small Business
Publication 334 explains business accounting and COGS for tax purposes.
AICPA (Certified Public Accountants)
Professional standards and resources for cost accounting from America's leading CPA organization.
Shopify Pricing & COGS Guide
E-commerce specific guidance on product costing and profit margin strategy.
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